The reality of Piwi grape varieties in Italy, although it currently occupies a fairly marginal position in the context of wine production, has undeniably a position of great importance. In fact, for those who have not yet heard about it, these are varieties obtained by hybridization, resistant to fungal diseases such as powdery mildew and peronospera, which require drastically reduced chemical treatments.
In this sector, which promises an important increase in the years to come, the initiative at the base of the project Ca’ Apollonio in Romano d’Ezzelino, in the province of Vicenza, worth the attention. Here the owner Massimo Vallotto, with his wife Maria Pia and the oenologist Nicola Biasi, have planted 6 hectares of Piwi vines, becoming the largest winery in Europe dedicated exclusively to them indeed. The winery should also provide, from this year, the tourist reception service, created with the aim of attracting the most curious wine lovers, and to make the project known thanks to this divulgation work.
Precisely for this last reason, the winery has produced a wine preview that has submitted to the attention of critics and tasters: a 100% Souvignier Gris called 3.6.9. The name recalls the 3 years of sovesci, 6 years of plants, 9 years of permaculture that are behind this wine, produced with a grape created in 1983 in Germany by the crossing between Seyval and Zähringer (this last crossing of Gewurztraminer and Riesling).
My sample, without vintage, is characterized by a straw yellow color of good consistency with initial hints of plum, white peach and chlorophyll, followed by leaf of pepper, mint and hawthorn and, finally, by echoes of white pepper and idercarburi. In the mouth it has a glyceric attack and gives an initial sense of sweetness, immediately interrupted by a pleasant acid shock that overturns the gustatory system; from this moment on the sip will develop alternating the two sensations in a pleasant game of references, enriched by references to fruit and hydrocarbons present until a quite long finish.
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