How can you talk about a wine producer whose bottles make your eyes water with joy just seeing them?
This is the condition that I live with many producers: to those who read my posts continuously is known my passion for the wines of Alessandro Dettori or those of Rossella Bencini Tesi (just to mention the first two that come to mind).
What few people know is that for some years now, in this particular ranking, without a meter of objective judgment, has entered all, and I emphasize “all”, the wines produced by Antonella Pacchiarotti.
But let’s take it slow.
If you follow me for a while you will know how I stopped being attracted by the so-called international vines, preferring the productions obtained from local vines. Far be it from me to want to be empty snobs, since of those wines I still have a large representation in the cellar. It’s just that I’m getting tired of drinking the same grape, with organoleptic variations often imperceptible.
In this perspective, Antonella’s wines are a sincere fan of fresh air.
Let’s be clear: Antonella is not the first to produce Aleatico in the area of Gradoli, however her wines have characteristics that I had not previously found in other producers.
Antonella began producing wine at the end of the 90s and, having three children, she considered it appropriate to undertake this project “at her home” (Antonella lives in Grotte di Castro, 5 kilometers as the crow flies from Gradoli), to easily combine the roles of winemaker and mother.
We are about 500 meters above sea level, with vineyards overlooking the Bolsena Lake from their south/ southeast exposure.
The viticulture practiced is of ecological style as are the stages of winemaking that take place in the 17th century cellar, dug into the rock, consisting of three 70-meter gorges that flow into the central hall. In this environment, so suitable for the entire working cycle of the grapes, there are machines of the latest generation able to simplify the work of Antonella, without coming to terms with chemistry or other novelties.
Among the wines produced, one of the most emblematic is the Aleatico Cavarosso.
We are talking about a wine made from grapes placed on hilly terrain of volcanic origin, 460 meters high. The density in the vineyard is 5000 plants per hectare, and the yield in must, rather low, is 60%.
Once in the cellar the grapes are left to macerate for about twenty days, at a controlled temperature, with three daily pumping over.
Once fermented and separated from the skins, the wine is aged in steel for about 8 months. After bottling, the aging continues in glass for at least a year and a half; only when the wine has “settled” it will be marketed.
The 2022 vintage shows an intriguing color halfway between ruby and purple, with a consistency of the glass that suggests a good roundness.
The nose is rich and greedy, with an opening on notes of the markers par excellence of this vine: black cherry and sour cherry. The olfactory profile continues, therefore, with raspberries and mulberry blackberry, “Velvet alibi” Rose, a green branch of cinchona, fern and Balkan Sobranie tobacco, with final echoes of wooded dew, cowhide leather, carob and Palo Santo incense.
To define the palate it is necessary to resort to a term not technical but of sure effectiveness: “impressive”.
Oh yes, the palate impresses from the first sip (as long as you let breathe the bottle, opening it and draining it), making us perceive (then we will return) the mouth invaded by a basket in which I invite you to imagine all the round and fleshy red fruit that can come to mind.
From a strictly tactile point of view, the wine is soft, without ever becoming cloying, balsamic, delicately hematic, and with a deliciously velvety tannin. All this is accompanied by the return of the basket of red fruit, to which I had just mentioned, that takes hostage the retrolfactory way and doesn’t leave it even after the long closure.
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