The Domaine Marcell Deiss was founded in 1947 by the homonymous owner, who was succeeded by his son Jean-Michel and, later, by his nephew Mathieu who currently leads, helped and advised by his father. In the Alsace production scene, however, this winery has carved out a prominent role thanks to the work of the current owner. In fact, Mathieu, in addition to having embraced the biodynamic philosophy, began to use (since 1990) the technique of complantation or “crowd planting”, which provides for the planting of a vineyard with several different species of vines, side by side, without distinction. The choice of this practice of archaic viticulture (already known in the Middle Ages in those lands) is the fulcrum of the philosophy of Mathieu who, with his wines, aims to exalt the Terroir to the maximum, without a single vine which diverts, with its characteristic taste-olfactory, the attention of those who taste them.
The first parcel cultivated with this technique insisted on the Gran Cru Altemberg de Bergheim, a south facing vineyard, at an altitude between 220 and 320 meters, on a poor, red (ferrous) and calcareous soil. From this vineyard is obtained the homonymous wine Altemberg de Bergheim, composed of a mix of the 13 traditional Alsatian grapes (in different percentages) harvested when already a part of them was attacked by noble rot. After careful selection in the vineyard, the grapes are gently pressed with the whole bunch and left to ferment spontaneously in large oak barrels where, subsequently, they age on the fine lees a year, before the final bottling.
This 2015 vintage is characterized by a color between straw yellow and golden, with an evident glyceric softness, and aromas that start from melon, peach in syrup, orange blossom, candied citruses and honey, and then continue with medicinal herbs and Mediterranean scrub, and conclude with echoes of rosolio, ginger and hydrocarbons. The taste is decidedly soft and powerful but, instead of sweetness (which would be expected), the palate is crossed by a component between the savory and iodine that alternates with flashes of acidity, in a swing that is enriched with the return of fruity and candied tones, all present at the same time until the long closing.
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