Sometimes, in the varied world of wine, it happens that the owner of a large Venetian industrial group, Diotisalvi Perin, lover of nature and good wine, decides to take the risk and turn his passion into a fascinating wine project. Diotisalvi did so initially with a company, Antiche Terre dei Conti, engaged in an organic production at 360 degrees, and today converted to the production of ancient grains and flour. The dream of producing organic and biodynamic quality wine, far from being over, continues in a new reality that we could define the spin-off of Antiche Terre dei Conti, the homonymous Società Agricola Diotisalvi.
Today Diotisalvi winery is led by his son Simone Perin and continues to pursue the aim of producing quality wines in Colfosco di Susegana, less than 10 kilometers from Conegliano, the beating heart of Prosecco in the province of Treviso. The vineyards (previously owned by Antiche Terre dei Conti) have been cultivated, for over 15 years, according to the organic disciplinary but this did not seem sufficient to preserve the health of the land, and therefore, a few years ago, it has also chosen to adopt the biodynamic philosophy, certified by Demeter since 2020. In this regard, with the aim of conducting a simpler and more effective communication of organic and biodynamic wine making techniques, on 31 August 2018 the winery was among the founding members of the Treviso based #Bio consortium.
The ecological vocation, however, does not stop only at the vineyards, and in fact the cellar techniques are constantly updated with processing protocols that differ for every single vine and every single parcel. It is precisely to enhance this vision that it was chose to use aging containers of different sizes and different materials, all located below ground level, in the fertile belly of the earth. Finally, at the end of the production process, berries, skins and stems are sent to an energy recovery structure to ferment and produce methane-rich gases, capable of generating electricity, with the final residues used as organic fertilizer; a circular path without waste.
Among the most characteristic wines of this winery, there is a sparkling one made from 100% Bronner grapes (probably the best known of the PIWI vines), with the name of Assolato. Once harvested the grapes arrive in the cellar where they are destemmed, left to macerate cold (with the use of dry ice) for 12 hours, at 6 degrees centigrade, and pressed with extreme delicacy to obtain a yield less than 55% of the weight of the grapes. After spontaneous alcoholic fermentation, malolactic fermentation takes place, followed by a period of maturation in 20 hl cement containers. The wine is then placed in bottles where, within a few weeks, it undergoes a refermentation that makes it slightly sparkling.
The wine has a very pale straw color, and an olfactory range ranging from dried apricot, hay, nectarine peach to cedar peel, from chlorophyll to toast to final echoes that recall the best artisanal brewing production. The palate is characterized by a good complexity and a rustic pleasantness that makes the drink compulsive, also thanks to the balanced flavor, the pressing acidity, and the return of yellow fruit at the ripeness peak that accompanies to a juicy finish.
Rating: 89/100
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