I believe that when we talk about a wine it is necessary to be sincere to the core and, true to my ethical conviction, I confess from the beginning that the wine I am about to talk about has my sympathy, that is why my impression of it is inevitably improved.
Everything was born from an exchange of impressions, at an event of natural wines, between me and Matteo, son of Bruna Ferro, the owner of the Carussin company, the famous biodynamic winery in the south of Monferrato Astigiano. While I was tasting the wine I’m going to tell you about, I asked Matteo its price (I don’t think the merchant attitude will ever abandon me), and received for answer a miserable “12 euros and a half”.
I reminded them that, because of the quality expressed in the glass, they could have asked for much more, and he said me “Of course, we do not enrich ourselves with wine, but we live there in a very dignified way, we lack nothing, and we must be grateful to those who, year after year, buy our bottles, because they give us a living”.
Given that I had already met Matteo at another event, even if two meetings are too few to give someone a complete judgment, he seemed to me a person at least genuine and authentic, genuinely and authentically interested in establishing a dialectical and cognitive relationship with the interlocutor who shows interest in his work.
Having said that, we come to today’s winey and wine: I’m certainly not the first to discover the Carussin winery, since in terms of Barbera and Moscato it is one of the most relevant organic wineries in Piedmont. Founded in 1927 in S. Marzano Oliveto, the company begins to vinify its first 4 hectares, destined to expand progressively until the present 19, and to include also the brewery, the Agribar and the educational farm Asinoi, with 10 donkeys to conduct a form of pet-therapy designed by Bruna.
As for grapes, the self-definition given by the company is that its entire production cycle is carried out “with a low anthropic impact”: staff must accompany the grapes with delicacy and sensitivity at every stage of their process of transformation into wine; all using a disciplinary that has become biodynamic since 2009. This translates into treatments with copper and mine sulfur in homeopathic quantities, no green pruning, intertwining of the rows with protein pea, villous vetch, favino and mustard, all nitrogen-providing, a nutrient element particularly appreciated by the vine. Always according to the principle of low anthropic impact, even in the winery the grape is accompanied in its various phases without ever intervening in such a way as to change the quality it expresses naturally, not even to improve it.
Coming to the wine I wanted to talk about, it is the Barbera d’Asti DOCG Asinoi that, after the path in the vineyard that I mentioned earlier, is harvested in boxes, indicatively in late September. In the cellar it takes place the soft pressing, controlled fermentation with a not excessive maceration, during which 3 daily pumping over are carried out, and natural stabilization is left to take place during the short aging in cement.
The 2020 vintage was shown, in the glass, a ruby color not particularly intense, streaked with purple, with a sleek consistency, and an olfactory range opened on notes of Ravenna cherry, rose petal, red currant and other small red and crunchy berries, followed by blood and ferrous hints, with conclusive echoes of volatile acidity widely within the legally allowed range.
In the mouth it was particularly fresh, almost lively, but slowly the softness began to show the most “reassuring” side of the wine, giving the palate the idea of a perfect match to a delicious Déjeuner sur l’herbe, with a very thin but present tannin, and invigorating enough to turn off the eventual fat of a rustic sandwich with salami; all enriched by the return of the red fruit that accompanied the sip to a good length closure
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