Francesco Fabbretti

STORIE DI VINI E VITICOLTORI

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Schiava Upupa Rot 2017, Weingut Abraham

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Viticulture in South Tyrol has ancient roots: at least 3000 years ago, since, in some areas, sickles were found for pruning, very similar to those still used, dating back to that historical period. Although Martin Abraham and his wife Marlies are aware of carrying such a cumbersome past on their shoulders, they run a winery that, starting from a handful of years ago, has begun to produce wines, which have gained the attention of critics and wine lovers. [Read more…] about Schiava Upupa Rot 2017, Weingut Abraham

Campill 2019, Pranzegg

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To fully understand the intense bond that holds Martin Gojer, and his wife Marion Untersulzner, at Maso Pranzegg it is worth taking a few steps back and clarify what a Maso is: a clearing, with a peasant house and barn, with attached the surrounding plots of land, intended for animal husbandry, agriculture or viticulture. So far there seems to be nothing strange since a farm consists more or less in the same housing/ productive solution. [Read more…] about Campill 2019, Pranzegg

Bramaterra I Porfidi 2010, Tenute Sella

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The story that binds the Sella family to viticulture, is a story that I always like to tell, because, although the tendency of wealthy families to invest in the agricultural sector tout court is a well-known tradition (not only in Italy), what makes this story different is the choice of the place to invest. Already in 1671 the Sella family bought the first plot in Lessona, the one destined to become the nucleus of the estates, and continued to expand without ever leaving the enclave of Upper Biella, ignoring the easy enticements of the wine-growing territories that have become progressively more famous. [Read more…] about Bramaterra I Porfidi 2010, Tenute Sella

‘L Franc Bandit 2010, Proprietà Sperino

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Sometimes life makes strange paths, and so a scion of a famous family of doctors-surgeons, Felice Sperino, after undertaking the studies of the Aesculapius profession, remains accidentally dazzled by some registers, kept in the library of the noble house, which contains the detailed descriptions of numerous harvests of the 19th century. [Read more…] about ‘L Franc Bandit 2010, Proprietà Sperino

Dut’Un 2016, Vie di Romans

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Within the wine scene of every known enclaves there are those few producers who, after having had a deserved success in advance of the times, continue to express themselves on levels of excellence to the point of having become, rightly, flag bearer of the enclave itself. This is the case of the Vie di Romans winery, founded in the late 80s by the Gallo family in the homonymous locality Via di Romans, in the municipality of Mariano del Friuli (Gorizia), 20 kilometers from the Slovenian border and as many from the Adriatic Sea. [Read more…] about Dut’Un 2016, Vie di Romans

Barbera d’Asti Asinoi 2020, Carussin

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I believe that when we talk about a wine it is necessary to be sincere to the core and, true to my ethical conviction, I confess from the beginning that the wine I am about to talk about has my sympathy, that is why my impression of it is inevitably improved.

Everything was born from an exchange of impressions, at an event of natural wines, between me and Matteo, son of Bruna Ferro, the owner of the Carussin company, the famous biodynamic winery in the south of Monferrato Astigiano. While I was tasting the wine I’m going to tell you about, I asked Matteo its price (I don’t think the merchant attitude will ever abandon me), and received for answer a miserable “12 euros and a half”. [Read more…] about Barbera d’Asti Asinoi 2020, Carussin

Coste della Sesia Ciuèt 2012, Azienda Vitivinicola Lessona – Pietro Cassina

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History indicates 1830 as the year around which the official birth of Barolo can legitimately be determined, defined with a phrase, erroneously attributed to Count Camillo Benso di Cavour, that sounded like: “the king of wines, the wine of kings”. After 200 years Barolo is alive and marching with us, and this has had two consequences: the first was the explosion of the “Langhe-phenomenon”, the second was the fact that the Langhe themselves have almost totally monopolized the world of wine-critics, despite the Piedmont is rich in productive enclaves in which the Nebiolo gives rise to fascinating productions Although it is not possible to establish a definitive date, also because we are talking about a work in progress still developing itself, wine lovers have begun to rediscover these other productive enclaves, especially those located in Northern Piedmont. [Read more…] about Coste della Sesia Ciuèt 2012, Azienda Vitivinicola Lessona – Pietro Cassina

Clivi Galea 2018, I Clivi

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La storia della cantina I Clivi parte da molto lontano, più precisamente dall’Africa occidentale, l’ultima tappa dei viaggi di Ferdinando Zanusso che, a metà anni ’90, decide di andare in pensione e di acquistare una vecchio vigneto nella terra natia della moglie: Cormons, in pieno Collio Goriziano. Ferdinando has no wine training and, moreover, having travelled half the world for work, he does not even know how to speak the local language, but this does not prevent him from cultivating his wine dream with passion and determination.

It will be these two characteristics that will infect his son Mario, who abandons his studies in economics to enthusiastically support his father in the work of the vineyard and cellar. [Read more…] about Clivi Galea 2018, I Clivi

Braide Alte 2018, Livon

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Among the protagonists of the birth and development of modern enology in Friuli-Venezia Giulia is undoubtedly the figure of Dorino Livon, a true pioneer of both Collio and Colli Orientali del Friuli.

It dates back to 1964, in fact, the first plot of vineyards purchased by Dorino, expanded progressively, to cover the current 180 hectares. In the mid-80s, the company passed from its founder to his sons Valneo and Tonino, who, today, have given way to the third generation of the family, his nephews Matteo and Francesca. [Read more…] about Braide Alte 2018, Livon

Merlot 2016, Miani

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Although the name of Enzo Pontoni says relatively little to the vast majority of wine consumers, it is worth mentioning that it is the mind and arms behind Miani winery, producer, with incredible constancy, of rare and legendary wines. The story of Enzo begins around the early ’80s when he decided to leave the engineering sector, where he worked, to take care full-time of the Buttrio family winery (10 kilometers southeast of Udine), and the family vineyards, between Buttrio and Corno di Rosazzo, in the denomination Colli Orientali del Friuli. [Read more…] about Merlot 2016, Miani

Trento Spumante Extra-Brut 2010 Riserva Lunelli, Ferrari

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There is no doubt that the sparkling production of Ferrari wineries, their Trento DOC, represents one of the highest productive peaks of this kind in Italy, and that these wines are among the most renowned ambassadors in the world of Italian style. On the other hand, the history of this House was born more than a century ago, when the young oenologist Giulio Ferrari (trained at the Royal Agricultural School of San Michele all’Adige and at the exclusive School of Viticulture of Montpellier) founded it in 1902, at the age of 23, and begins to produce sparkling wines, making use of his experience gained during his apprenticeship in Epenay, in Champagne. [Read more…] about Trento Spumante Extra-Brut 2010 Riserva Lunelli, Ferrari

Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Morgeot 2012, Domaine Ramonet

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The history of the Ramonet family’s wine production in the Chassagne-Montrachet area began towards the end of 1920 with Pierre Ramonet, a young man with high hopes, who began to buy the first patches of land in those places. If Pierre was simply good at buying the most suitable land, or if he was extremely skilled in the transformation of grapes into wine, we could not know for sure, but what we know is that, just ten years after the birth of Domaine, an American customer, Frank Schoonmaker, was so impressed by the level of the wines that he decided to start exporting large quantities (we are talking about three quarters of the entire production). [Read more…] about Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Morgeot 2012, Domaine Ramonet

Clivi Galea 2018, I Clivi

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The history of the winery I Clivi starts from far away, more precisely from West Africa, the last stage of the travels of Ferdinando Zanusso who, in the mid-90s decided to retire and buy an old vineyard in his wife’s native land: Cormons, in the heart of Collio Goriziano. Ferdinando has no wine training and, moreover, having travelled half the world for work, he does not even know how to speak the local language, but this does not prevent him from cultivating his wine dream with passion and determination. [Read more…] about Clivi Galea 2018, I Clivi

Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Moenchberg 2016, Domaine Gresser

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The story of the Gresser family began in Switzerland around the eleventh century and from there it moved, initially, to Gressoney, in Val d’Aosta and then back to Switzerland, in Wil, a village near Constance Lake. Being the city of Wil twinned with that of Andlau, it was easy for a descendant of this family, Eberhardt Gresser, to obtain, in 1399, the citizenship of Andlau, laying the foundations for a link between the Gressers and this country that remained unchanged over the centuries. [Read more…] about Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Moenchberg 2016, Domaine Gresser

Rossese di Dolceacqua Posau Riserva Biamonti 2017, Maccario Dringenberg

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To speak of Ligurian viticulture without mentioning Rossese di Dolceacqua would be to do a wrong to the prestige of this wine, all founded on the incredible elegance it can express in Val Nernia, a handkerchief in the first hinterland halfway between the Western Ligurian sea and the Mountain. Although, since the 1950s, there has been the depopulation of those lands, with the reduction of the hectares of vines from 3,000 to just 80, there are still figures like that of Giovanna Maccario, who with tenacity and conviction carry on the tradition of this wine. [Read more…] about Rossese di Dolceacqua Posau Riserva Biamonti 2017, Maccario Dringenberg

Barolo Etichetta Blu 2014, Parusso Armando di Parusso F.lli Società Agricola

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According to the available sources, it seems that the Parusso family began to deal with grapes and wines as early as 1901 when the pioneer Gaspare bought his first vineyard in the Mariondino area, in Castiglione Falletto. Since then this family has continued in its symbiotic path with the vine until 1971 when Armando Parusso, from his winery in Cascina Rovella (in Bussia), began to bottle his wine with his own label. [Read more…] about Barolo Etichetta Blu 2014, Parusso Armando di Parusso F.lli Società Agricola

Carricante Vigna di Milo 2016, I Vigneri di Salvo Foti

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It is rarely possible to talk about a bond between winemaker and terroir with a greater depth than that which for over 40 years has united Salvo Foti and the volcanic Etna soils. Salvo is first and foremost a man deeply in love with his land, which has studied and recounted endlessly in countless lectures around the world, and from which he tries to obtain wines produced with techniques that belong to a rich wine tradition handed down from father to son. [Read more…] about Carricante Vigna di Milo 2016, I Vigneri di Salvo Foti

Rossese di Dolceacqua 2020, Testalonga

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Dolceacqua is a small enclave, just over 80 hectares, in the far west of the Riviera Ligure di Ponente, a few kilometers from France, which boasts a tiny production of wines based on Vermentino and Rossese. The beauty of the place, with its ethereal and timeless landscapes, also led the leader of impressionism, Claude Monet, to fix some traits in his famous “Le Château de Dolceacqua” which include the houses of the old village and the Ponte Vecchio (Old Bridge). [Read more…] about Rossese di Dolceacqua 2020, Testalonga

Blanc de Noirs Grand Cru Extra Brut Le Bout Du Clos, Jacques Selosse

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The influence that the small Maison Jacques Selosse has exerted on Champagne producers is an incontrovertible fact that testifies to the importance of the 40 years of study and research by the charismatic Anselme Selosse. It all began around 1974 when the young Anselme, once finished his studies in oenology in Burgundy, entered in the Maison founded by his father Jacques 15 years earlier. [Read more…] about Blanc de Noirs Grand Cru Extra Brut Le Bout Du Clos, Jacques Selosse

Vorberg 2018, Cantina Terlano

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In the area of Terlano wine was produced at least in the 6th century B.C. as it dates back to that time a characteristic billhook for the vine pruning, very similar to those still used in those areas, in the subzone “Siebenheich/Settequerce” (= seven oaks). On the other hand, that this was a particularly well-suited area, was also known by the large landowners who held the monopoly in the 19th century [Read more…] about Vorberg 2018, Cantina Terlano

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