To establish when the link between the Drusian family and wine production was born, we have to go back to the middle of 1800, with the first members who settled in Bigolino, in Valdobbiadene, 30 kilometers north of Treviso, in Veneto. Among the ancestors of the current owner, Francesco Drusian, who succeeded in 1984, it is worth remembering his grandfather Giuseppino and his father Rino, who gave an important boost to the winery. The choice to produce sparkling wine must be ascribed entirely to Francesco, who took it in 1986 with the intention of engaging in this kind of viticulture, defined by the same producers in the area as “heroic”. In fact, even if the sparkling wine Valdobbiadene DOCG is currently associated to the generic Prosecco, and has become, in its totality, one of the most famous and widespread Italian wines, this fact should not mislead: in Valdobbiadene the landscape seems romantic only for an impromptu tourist. The people who live there, on the other hand, know that if they want to produce wine they have to deal with their characteristic hills, both picturesque and problematic to work, to the point of requiring, for every hectare cultivated (almost always manually), from 600 to 800 hours per year, compared to the 100 planned for flat land.
Drusian’s work in the vineyard is accompanied by the adoption of practices aimed at improving the health of plants (and grapes), such as the rejection of synthetic chemistry and the exclusive use of organic fertilizers. This choice has allowed, among other things, to protect the about 300 hundred-year-old vines owned, which are often used by the winery to create grafts in young plants, with the aim of passing on such a precious botanical heritage. In the cellar, the grapes harvested in the 80 hectares of property, have a sparkling period of about 4 months, despite the disciplinary requires only one, in order to create a more elegant and persistent perlage, all in environments that are characterized by an efficient management of water resources and the first attempts to use renewable energy.
Currently the winery has three product lines, one of which is called “Collezione Valdobbiadene” and counts, among its ranks, the Brut Valdobbiadene docg that I tasted recently. It is a Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore docg made entirely of Glera grapes that grow on calcareous clay soils exposed to the south, at about 200/250 meters above sea level. The manual harvest takes place in the first decade of September, and is followed by a delicate pressing, which leads to a yield of must equal to 70% of the whole bunch weight. After the first vinification in white, takes place the second, in autoclave, with the Martinotti/Charmat method, which leads to the above long secondary fermentation, at low temperature (15/16 degrees), to obtain the maximum finesse as much tactile as taste-olfactory.
The bottle tasted, probably belonging to the last vintage produced (2020), has a very delicate straw yellow color, with a really fine and incessant perlage, and a range of hints that open on notes of hawthorn, Decana pear, toasted hazelnut and citron, followed by lime peel, fern, chlorophyll and green apple. Despite the immediacy, the palate strikes for the good acidity, for the perlage caress and for an excellent and juicy sapid/ mineral component; all enriched by the return of fresh yellow fruit and chlorophyll that accompany the sip until a good length closure.
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