Sometimes, in the varied world of wine, it happens that the owner of a large Venetian industrial group, Diotisalvi Perin, lover of nature and good wine, decides to take the risk and turn his passion into a fascinating wine project. Diotisalvi did so initially with a company, Antiche Terre dei Conti, engaged in an organic production at 360 degrees, and today converted to the production of ancient grains and flour. The dream of producing organic and biodynamic quality wine, far from being over, continues in a new reality that we could define the spin-off of Antiche Terre dei Conti, the homonymous Società Agricola Diotisalvi.
Today Diotisalvi winery is led by his son Simone Perin and continues to pursue the aim of producing quality wines in Colfosco di Susegana, less than 10 kilometers from Conegliano, the beating heart of Prosecco in the province of Treviso. The vineyards (previously owned by Antiche Terre dei Conti) have been cultivated, for over 15 years, according to the organic disciplinary but this did not seem sufficient to preserve the health of the land, and therefore, a few years ago, it has also chosen to adopt the biodynamic philosophy, certified by Demeter since 2020. In this regard, with the aim of conducting a simpler and more effective communication of organic and biodynamic wine making techniques, on 31 August 2018 the winery was among the founding members of the Treviso based #Bio consortium.
The ecological vocation, however, does not stop only at the vineyards, and in fact the cellar techniques are constantly updated with processing protocols that differ for every single vine and every single parcel. It is precisely to enhance this vision that it was chose to use aging containers of different sizes and different materials, all located below ground level, in the fertile belly of the earth. Finally, at the end of the production process, berries, skins and stems are sent to an energy recovery structure to ferment and produce methane-rich gases, capable of generating electricity, with the final residues used as organic fertilizer; a circular path without waste.
Among the most emblematic wines of the winery is worth mentioning the Tai Riserva di Famiglia, a 100% Tai wine obtained from land in Lison Pramaggiore from centuries-old vineyards at 60 meters above sea level. The harvest is done manually, in small wooden crates, around the middle of September and is followed by gentle pressing and half a day of full static decanting. After a couple of weeks of fermentation, in a mix of Barrique and Tonneaux, at a controlled temperature, the wine ages in the same containers, on the lees, for about nine months, before bottling and marketing.
The 2019 vintage, in 100% biodynamic conversion (the Demeter certification is already present in the vintage 2020), shows an intense straw-yellow color, almost golden, with an olfactory fan that opens on notes of young calvados, dried apricot, nectarine peach and boxwood flower, followed by orange blossom honey, candied orange peel, sultanas grapes and chlorophyll, with final echoes of vanilla and carpentry. The generous, soft and glyceric mouthfeel is supported by a good sapid/mineral component and a hint of spicy white pepper; all accompanied by the return of the overripe yellow fruit and chlorophyll that accompany the sip until an excellent length closure.
Rating: 90/100
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