If the area of the southern Tuscan Coast has its own wine history based on indigenous vines, such as Sangiovese and Ciliegiolo, and the central one is firmly guarded by the wines of Bolgheri, to the north it is difficult to identify an equally developed productive tradition. For this reason it is even more surprising the incredible positioning work that the Duemani farm has been able to do in just twenty years of history. The success story of this winery becomes even more emblematic if we consider that this is entirely ascribed to the stubbornness of its owners, Elena Celli and Luca d’Attoma, who decided to continue the project despite the pre-implant analysis had given a very unsuccesful result.
In fact, the first lands identified, located on a slope of Riparbella, a small town in the municipality of Pisa, were steep and extreme because they were uncultivated for years, full of stones and in a state of semi-abandonment. Nevertheless, Elena (who today deals with the administrative part) and Luca (one of the most prestigious Italian oenologists) decided to plant the first 7 hectares of Syrah, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, with a very clear project: revitalize those soils by means of biodynamic principles. Today, another three hectares have been added in the nearby Castellina Marittima, where the new winery is also located (finished in 2014), and the production philosophy has not changed; on the contrary, the Demeter certification has also arrived, without doubt the most famous and rigorous biodynamic certification. The rest is made by the climate, the favorable weather conditions and a lot of work in the vineyard, almost exclusively manual, except for sporadic interventions operated with small light tractors.
In addition to the famous Cabernet Franc and the equally famous Syrah Suisassi, the triptych of the top wines of the winery is completed by the G.Punto made from 100% Alicante (Grenache) grapes grown in Castellina Marittima, at 350 meters of altitude, with a density of more than 7000 vines per hectare grown with the alberello technique. After a first manual selection in the vineyard, and their manual harvest in small crates, the grapes are sent to the cellar for destemming and for a second selection, grape by grape, on a special sorting table. The spontaneous fermentation, thanks to the indigenous yeasts, is carried out in terracotta jars, at a controlled temperature, with frequent fulling and pumping over, and is followed by a three months skins contact maceration. The obtained wine is racked in second passage barriques where it ages for a little less than a year, before bottling, without clarification or filtration, and marketing.
The 2019 vintage shows a ruby color of medium intensity and consistency, with an olfactory range that opens on notes of black cherry in spirit, cooked plum, carob and tomato paste, followed by orange, black olive, Mediterranean scrub and carpentry, with conclusive echoes of goudron and haematic/ferrous. The palate succeeds in its attempt to balance the evident softness to an equally evident citrus freshness, with a contour of almost iodine flavor and intense and elegant tannins; all enriched by the return of the red fruit and the haematic/ferrous component that accompany the sip to an excellent length closure.
Rating: 95/100
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