In order to establish the date of birth of the Domaine des Comtes Lafon it is necessary to go back, to 22 January 1894, when an administrative accountant of the south-west of France, Jules Joseph Barthélémy Lafon, married the daughter of a family of Muersault wine merchants, Marie Bloch. Marie inherited some vineyards in that area of the Côte de Beaune, while Jules was engaged in his career as a state administrator, culminating in the 1920s with his election as mayor of Meursault. Finally, in 1931, Jues decided to abandon his institutional duties to devote himself to his own vineyards, increased with to the acquisition of other parcels in Meursault, Montrachet, and Volnay.
After Jules’ death it was opened the practice of hereditary succession, which were not particularly lucky, with the heirs who disinterested in wine production, selling many lands owned, and arriving at the hypothesis of getting rid of the entire Domaine. It was not until 1956 that a real rebirth could be witnessed thanks to the work of René Lafon who, after leaving Paris, devoted his body and soul to the revival of the winery and to the replanting of most of the vineyards. He was succeeded by Dominique Lafon who, from 1984 to the present day, has expanded the Domaine to reach 16.3 hectares of current property.
Although the fame of this winery is mainly attributed to its Chardonnay of Meursault, their Pinot Noir have begun to find an audience, progressively growing, of admirers. As in the case of this Monthélie Premier cru Les Duresses which, also thanks to a very attractive price, has all the cards in order to amaze the most attentive and demanding palates. From this parcel, just over a hectare exposed to the east, behind the homonymous village of the Côte de Beaune, just 2 kilometers north of Mersault, a wine is born whose grapes (Pinot Noir) are planted (the last time in 1986), on a red and stony soil, at high density (10.000 vines per hectare). The manual harvest, with the first grapes’ selection already in the plant, is followed by a period of maceration of 15-20 days and, subsequently, pressing and spontaneous fermentation. The wine obtained rests for a couple of weeks, in order to allow the unwanted solid parts to precipitate, before being decanted in small barrels where, in contact with yeasts and fine lees, performs malolactic fermentation, between March and June. A final racking and a 20-22 months barriques aging, and the wine is ready for marketing.
The 2010 vintage has a brilliant but not very intense ruby color, with a range of aromas that start with black cherry, underbrush, lavender and violet, followed by wild blackberry, red blueberry, pomegranate and toasted hazelnut, with a hint of vinyl and incense. The taste is quite warm, of good roundness, with an extremely balanced acid-sapid vein that supports the lintel of the sip, along with a retro-olfactory return of fresh red fruit, with the vinyl and the floral note that accompany the sip until its good length closing.
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