Talking about Alessandro Dettori and his wines is a very difficult task, as his figure has been gradually outlined with the characteristics of the timeless romantic myth. Actually Alessandro is light years away from this mythology, a bit naive, which unfortunately ends up neglecting his true strengths, such as the determination, a bit stubborn (so viscerally “Sardinian”), the great technical-agronomical background, and an enviable pragmatism.
In a patch of land of Romangia, whose indigenous inhabitants produced wine already 1000 years before Christ, less than 5 kilometers from the sea, in the northwestern part of a continent enclosed on an island known as Sardinia, Alessandro is the most authoritative and well-known spokesman of a viticulture inspired by the wisdom of the fathers and the fathers’ fathers. In this sense, not out of false modesty, he wants to remind the most distracted that he did not invent anything, but he learned fully from the wine experience of the place, first by his grandfather who took him, very young, in the vineyards, putting him in touch with that world he would learn to love.
Alessandro could undoubtedly be called a natural winemaker, despite being totally detached from the fairy tale myth that naturalness has built around itself. To understand the man just think of the birth of his totally buried cellar: after years of study and excavation to accommodate it, three years were expected to allow the study of soil sealing and infiltration of water, in order to identify the most suitable areas in which to build the vinification and maturation environments.
As for production techniques, the winery refuses any form of chemical systems in the vineyard, even at the cost of losing an entire year (as in 2008), and every intervention is motivated by the will to enhance the ability of the vines to regulate themselves. Once the grapes have reached the right level of ripeness, the harvest takes place, followed by the manual selection of the bunches, on a special steel table (by the manual destemming) and by a maceration in cement that does not have a defined time but that, simply, lasts the time that Alessandro’s experience deems “necessary”. After the manual drawing off, which allows a greater delicacy and the absence of shock to the masses, the wine is racked in small cement tanks, where it ages from 2 to 3 years before bottling, without adding CO2.
Tuderi wine, which could be defined, not without approximation, its entry wine, comes from a vineyard of just under 3 hectares of Cannonau grape, with plants of 45 years of age from which no more than half a kilo of grapes each is obtained. It is a ruby wine with orange nuances that, in the 2016 vintage, smells of ripe dark fig, durone, garrigue and myrtle, with a contour of carob, prickly pear, red orange and dried helichrysum, and a final echo of undergrowth and vinyl. The taste is shocking because it combines a dense and full-bodied texture to an incredible ease and lightness of drinking, thanks to an acidic component that makes you quickly forget the slight residual sugar; all this while the retro-smell recalls the vegetal notes and the fruity ones, which blend at the center of the sip and accompany it to a good length closure.
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