In Chilvagghja, 5 kilometers southeast of Arzachena, the beating heart of Gallura, 20 years ago, the Demuro family decided to reuse the family estate, modernizing it, and adapting it to wine cellar. The basic idea was clear from the beginning: to produce great Vermentino di Gallura d.o.c.g., without neglecting the production of red berried wines such as Cannonau, Carignano and Bovale sardo.
The initial project was soon to bear fruit, which ensured the development of the entire ecosystem of ownership, and thanks to the help of professionals in the wine sector, the winery came to own 50 hectares of land able to produce about 300,000 bottles. If you think that this is a point of arrival you are off the road, because the winery has in mind the acquisition of other hectares of land (nothing short of magnificent weaving, irradiation and temperature ranges between day and night) with the aim of doubling production, bringing it to 600,000 bottles per year.
Needless to say, Tino Demuro, the Deus ex Machina of the winery, put all of himself in his work, with passion, and without sparing himself, because when he bought the first vines it was clear, from the beginning, that he wanted “to do the things seriously” (cit.). Seriousness also meant a study of the context in which the winery was located and potential summer buyers: being positioned on the main road to Porto Cervo implies various consequences.
While the wine produced must have an organoleptic picture that goes well beyond the generic “good”, the presentation of the new vintages must not be outdone, therefore, those dates, always take place in conjunction with artistic events hosted by the winery itself (presentation of books, films, events dedicated to international photography).
Tino is convinced that the Italian wine market must be open to internationality, without distorting territory, soul and identity; and the solution he proposes is to make a group, aware of the fact that Sardinians character is on average very reserved and that it takes years to be honored by their friendship (my mother is Sardinian, I lived over 30 summers in Sardinia…trust me, that’s right). Certainly in the last 20 years have been made giant steps and, according to studies conducted by third parties, Sardinia is destined to become the fifth Italian player for the quantity of wine produced. Obviously it will be needed strict controls of the entire production chain, to guarantee the genuineness and quality of the wine produced, and to remove those who defraud: the famous rotten apples that can be found everywhere, and not only in the world of wine.
Among the wines proposed by the winery there is one that occupies an important place in my drinker heart: Vermentino di Gallura d.o.c.g. Superiore Sciala, a wine that comes from the best bunches of Vermentino, in the best vineyards of the Surrau valley. In the cellar the must makes a brief contact with the skins, before fermenting, at controlled temperature, in stainless steel tanks that will host its evolution for some months, in contact with the fine lees. Bottling will be followed by a short period of stabilization in glass, and marketing.
The 2018 vintage immediately shows how a few years of rest do so much good to this wine, starting from the color that turns towards golden, although not intense, which is accompanied by an olfactory spectrum dominated by four descriptors: hydrocarbon, nectarine, helichrysum, lime. The nose continues its run with apricot, mango, wild thistle and fennel, concluding it with notes of white incense from Mount Athos, spirulina seaweed, fresh and sweet almond, and granite sprinkled with sea water.
The Palate is immediately taken hostage by the spice of the hydrocarbon and the lime acidity, to which are added the sapidity of the algae, the heartbreaking beauty of the fragrance of helichrysum, the sprinkled granite and white incense.
… Oh, I forgot, persistence is counted in minutes!
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